Welcome to Cats and Critters' Newsletter

The love and companionship of pets can be found in the harshest conditions, even in a war zone. A number of recent news reports have detailed how American soldiers serving in Iraq have found and unofficially adopted canine companions amidst all the fighting. The bond these soldiers form with their new pets is strong, and the animals raise morale and provide the kind of comfort not easily found in the war-torn country. But U.S. military regulations prohibit soldiers from keeping pets, and so when troops are deployed to another area of Iraq or are sent home, they face the difficult task of leaving behind their newfound companion. However, the Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (SPCA) and a number of other groups in the U.S. have joined together to help bring dogs from Iraq back to America and reunite them with soldiers and their families.

Operation Baghdad Pups, an initiative sponsored by the SPCA and the group I Love Dogs, is leading the movement to help bring soldiers' pets back to America. Operation Baghdad Pups' first success occurred on Feb. 14, 2008, when Charlie, a border collie mix, set his paws on American soil for the first time. Much of Charlie's back story is obscured due to Army regulations. According to the SPCA, members of a military unit known as Charlie Company found a small black-and-white puppy while on patrol one evening. The puppy was weak and malnourished and so Sgt. Edward Watson, one of the members of the unit, scooped up the puppy and brought him back to their base. The whole unit cared for the dog, giving him fresh water and portions of their own rations. They named him Charlie and soon the dog was the unit's unofficial mascot. But when orders directed Charlie Company to move to a new location, Sgt. Watson couldn't bear to abandon his new friend. Sgt. Watson contacted SPCA International in October 2007, and an effort soon began to transport Charlie to the United States.

Charlie and Sgt. Watson. Photo courtesy of SPCA International.

Since then, Operation Baghdad Pubs rescued three more dogs. On Feb. 23, two dogs—Liberty, a mixed-breed puppy found in the aftermath of a house raid, and K-Pot, another mixed-breed pup found entangled in razor wire outside a military outpost—journeyed from Baghdad to New York City, and on March 13, a Shepherd/Border Collie mix named Socks landed in Washington, D.C. after befriending countless soldiers during a three-year stay in Iraq.

Other groups around the country, including local animal shelters and societies, have gotten in on the act as well. In February, the Best Friends Animal Society of Utah helped coordinate an effort to bring two puppies named Mama and Boris from Iraq to Detroit. The puppies belonged to Army Sgt. Peter C. Neesley, who found the pups outside Fort Apache in Baghdad. Neesley died of undetermined causes in 2007, and his family enlisted the help of U.S. Sen. Carl Levin to bring the dogs home.

K-Pot and soldier. Photo courtesy of SPCA International.

Bringing a dog or cat out of Iraq and back to the United States is no easy feat. According to the SPCA, it costs about $4,000 to rescue each animal; much of that money goes toward transporting the animal. However, each animal must receive rabies and distemper vaccinations and an overall health evaluation before they can be transported. As of late April, 2008, Operation Baghdad Pups has brought seven dogs and two cats from Iraq and Afghanistan to America and is working on more than 45 active request cases from the two countries. Once in America, the pets are usually placed in the home of a soldier's family member.

You may have heard the saying, "You own a dog but you feed a cat." It is true that cats value their independence a bit more than their canine counterparts. If you’ve ever been around cats, you already know they crave and require love and companionship. Cats make wonderful pets and most easily adjust to a variety of lifestyles and living spaces. Every cat is a true individual though, so it’s important to take the time to choose a four-footed friend who’s right for you. A cat’s personality, age and appearance, as well as the kinds of pets you already have at home, are all things you should keep in mind when making your selection.

If you’ve ever been to a shelter, you have probably noticed that some cats meow and head butt the cage door while others simply lie back and gaze at you with a look of total ambiguity. There are as many different personalities of cats as there are cats in the shelter. Which disposition is best for you? YOU have to decide.

Regardless of individual personality, look for a cat that is playful, active, alert, and comfortable while being held. At the shelter, ask an adoption counselor for assistance when you wish to spend some time with individual cats. Because they are in an unfamiliar environment, some cats that are usually quite social may be frightened or passive while in the shelter.

As a general rule, kittens are curious, playful, and full of energy, while adult cats are more relaxed and less mischievous. Kittens also require more time to train and feed. Cats are only kittens for a few months, though, so the age of the cat you adopt should really depend on the level of maturity you are looking for. Young children usually don’t have the maturity to handle kittens responsibly, so a cat that is at least four months old is probably the best choice for homes with young children.

Though dogs also have differences in coat, choosing the length of coat on a cat is a little different. Because the hair is generally finer and cats generally shed more, hair length can be an important part of your decision. Cats can have long, fluffy coats or short, dense fur, and the choice between the two is chiefly a matter of preference, availability, and your willingness to devote time to regular grooming. Short-haired cats are generally easier to come by since they’re the most popular and the most common. Keep in mind that long-haired cats require frequent grooming to remain mat-free. Felines with short coats also require brushing, though less frequently. Most cats enjoy a regular brushing and look forward to this daily ritual.

If you already own a cat or dog, you’re probably wondering how easy it is to add a cat to the family. The good news is that cats can get along with other cats, and despite the common stereotype, most dogs can get along with cats too! Unfortunately, introducing a new cat to a home with other pets can be time consuming and require patience on your part.

The best way to handle adding a new cat to the home is to provide time for a period of adjustment. You can do this effectively by isolating your new feline in a room of his own for a while, something that is a good idea for a new cat anyway. After several days, supervise meetings between the animals for periods of increasing length. Most cats will soon learn to accept each other. Some dogs simply won’t tolerate the presence of a cat, but by carefully introducing them, most problems can be solved.

No matter which kind of cat you choose, remember that you’re making a commitment to love and care for your new feline friend for his or her lifetime. That could mean 10, 15 or even 20 years! So choose you new companion carefully and be a responsible pet owner. In no time at all you’ll know how wonderful sharing your home with a cat can be.

One of the best ways to strengthen the bond between you and your cat is to play games together. When you play with your cat, you become the most interesting object in his or her life. Not only is playtime fun for your cat, it’s also a great way to get your cat to exercise, both mentally and physically.

Following are six games you can play with your cat. Not every feline will want to play every game on this list, but certainly there are at least a few games here that you and your cat will enjoy. While most of them require objects you may have around the house, there are also a number of toys available that provide the same fun. The key is to actually play with your cat in order to create a fun and lasting relationship with your cat while also keeping them trim and healthy.

Paw Hockey - Play this game in a room with hardwood, tile, or linoleum floors that has at least 10 square feet of free floor space. Break off an eight-inch square of aluminum foil and scrunch it up into a hockey puck shape. (Please remember that foil balls should always be thrown away at the end of the game. They are fine for games, but are not safe for unsupervised play.) Show your cat the puck and then flick it with your fingers so that it goes skittering across the floor. Your cat will then chase after the puck, batting it with his paws and making it scoot from one end of the room to the other. If your cat starts to lose interest in the game, pick up the puck and give it another flick.

Staircase Dash - With your cat at the top of the stairs and you at the bottom, fling a ping pong ball to the top of the staircase, against the side wall, one or two steps in front of where your cat is sitting. The ball bounces down the stairs and your cat should race down the stairs chasing after it. When the ball reaches the bottom of the stairs, probably with your cat just a step behind, fling the ball back up to the top of the staircase. Keep tossing the ball up the steps until your cat gets tired.

Bathtub Scurry - Put a ping pong ball in a clean, dry bathtub. Remove the bottles of shampoo and bars of soap and plug the drain so the ping pong ball doesn’t get lodged there. Put your cat in the bathtub, show him the ping pong ball, and bounce the ball off the side of the bathtub. As the ball bounces around, your cat should chase after it. If the ball starts to slow down, give it a good roll off the side to get it moving again and to keep up your cat’s interest.

Chase the Thing on the String - Get an aluminum foil ball, hollow plastic Whiffle ball, or catnip mouse and tie it to a three-foot piece of twine or heavy string. Pull the string along the floor in front of you, over the cat furniture, or up and down your staircase and let your cat chase after the object. Be sure to allow your cat to capture the object every once in awhile so he/she can feel like a successful predator.

Shadows on the Wall - Turn off the lights in the evening and shine a flashlight on a nearby wall. Dangle bouncy cat toys or other small objects in the light and move them back and forth so their shadows race up and down the wall. Your cat should leap up at the wall trying to catch the elusive prey.

One aspect of cats’ behavior which some owners find difficult to accept is hunting, especially when the cat insist on bringing her prey home. Hunting is a very strong instinct in cats and the techniques can be while watching young kittens at play. As the kittens grow older, the skills are finely honed through further play and by watching the mother and mimicking her when she hunts.

Hunting is entirely natural for cats and takes place even when they are well fed at home. They evidently enjoy the hunt, stalking patiently and carefully, moving forward and freezing with single minded concentration until they are close enough to pounce. If the cat returns with her kill and presents it to her owner, the reason is possibly because you should congratulate her on her hunting prowess. There is really no point in trying to punish your cat for hunting as it is a part of her nature that is so deeply rooted that to try and eliminate it may well cause her a lot of confusion. Playing catching games with your cat using toys may help to relieve some of her urge to hunt.

One solution is to put a bell on her collar so that the birds and other likely victims can hear her coming. If you do this, make sure that the collar has an elasticated section so that she can escape if it gets caught up on some object. It is important to worm your cat regularly, particularly if she hunts. Consult your veterinary hospital for more advice on de-worming.

Have you ever noticed your cat stalking something you cannot see or hear? Have you ever noticed your cat turning her attention to something or looking quickly in a certain direction while you sit dumbfounded wondering what she is doing? It's possible that she hears something you do not. Of course, that must mean that when you call your cat and she turns her head as if she doesn't hear you, she is choosing not to hear you. If you are familiar with "cat-titude," then knowing about your cat's hearing can come in handy.

It all begins with the cat's outer ear, or pinna, which sits on top of the cat's head. The outer ear is controlled by about 30 different muscles that enable the cat to independently rotate each ear 180 degrees, and position one ear or both facing any sound the cat detects. The shape of the ear is designed to funnel sound down to the middle ear, where the tympanic membrane and three small bones, called auditory ossicles, transmit vibrations into the inner ear. The middle ear also contains a canal called the Eustachian tube that helps to equalize pressure in the ear. Within the inner ear is a curved bone, known as the cochlea. This is where the actual hearing mechanism is located, called the organ of Corti. It is here that small, sensitive hairs pick up sound vibrations and send them through the auditory nerve to the brain.

Each part of the ear, working together, gives the cat superb high-frequency hearing. Since mice squeak at an extremely high frequency, cats can hear these noises. This is no coincidence. Waiting in ambush and listening closely for the slightest squeak, cats' hearing allows them to be extremely effective hunters. To put it into better perspective, humans can hear frequencies from about 20 hertz to 20 kilohertz while cats, on the other hand, can hear frequencies from about 30 hertz to 60 kilohertz. Cats also have an incredible ability to localize sounds. They can hear and differentiate sounds three feet away whose sources are only three inches apart.

Because hearing is such a large part of a cat's life, it is important to try to shield them from loud, high-pitch noises such as sirens or loud whistles. It is also important to take sound into account when playing with cats. There are several toys on the market that mimic the sound of prey species to entice cats to play with them. This has the advantage of making the toy much more interesting. However, if the volume is irritating to you then it could be harmful to your cat. So, the next time your cat is sitting nearby and does not respond to your commands, remember that she can hear you loud and clear and is probably choosing to ignore you.

About two weeks before the kittens are due, a nesting box (or queening box) should be introduced to the expectant mother. (see article on Gestation in Cats) This box should be made from a washable material and located in a warm and secluded area. The bottom of the box should be lined with an absorbent material that can be changed frequently. Newspapers, towels, or clean rags make excellent bed liners.

The first stage of labor may last anywhere from several hours to an entire day (24 hours). The queen is restless, fidgety, and usually refuses to eat. The expectant mother may pace about the house or begin digging in the queening box. Abdominal contractions signal the end of this period and the beginning of active labor.

Straining of the stomach muscles (contractions) marks the beginning of the second phase of labor. As the mother continues to strain, less time elapses between contractions. Generally within 15 minutes to one hour after contractions begin, a fluid-filled sac appears at the vaginal opening. This sac surrounds the first kitten.

After several contractions, the first kitten is born. The time interval between successive kittens can range anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 hours. Some experienced mothers are able to complete the entire birthing process in 30 minutes.

Generally when each kitten is born, it is enclosed in a membrane or sac. The mother usually licks the kitten’s face and breaks the sac. If this sac is not immediately broken by the mother, human intervention is required. The sac must be opened, and the kitten’s face must be rubbed. Rubbing the kitten’s face with a clean cloth is an excellent method to stimulate breathing. Sometimes the kitten is born without a membrane or sac. If this occurs, the sac will follow the kitten, arriving together with the umbilical cord.

There are two normal positions for delivery. The kittens can come out "head first" or "rear first". A "rear first" delivery is generally more difficult than a "head first" delivery.

Human intervention is required when a kitten is lodged in the birth canal. When this occurs (and the mother is not able to expel the kitten herself), the mother must be restrained and gentle traction applied to the kitten. The kitten is grasped with a clean dry towel and pulled in a downward position, toward the mother’s feet. When a kitten is lodged in the birth canal for a considerable amount of time, it is usually born dead.

A greenish-black discharge occurs between births. This discharge is normal and is often blood-tinged. If a reddish discharge occurs at the beginning of labor, and the expectant mother strains for more than one hour without delivering kittens, immediate veterinary attention is required.

After each kitten is born, the remaining portion of the sac should be removed from it’s face. Any mucus surrounding the nostrils should be cleared away. Kittens should be dried with a clean towel and rubbed in order to stimulate breathing. Using a fine-diameter thread, each umbilical cord should be tied about one inch from the kitten’s belly. The cord is cut on the far side of the knot, and the remaining stump (with the cord) is dipped into a white iodine solution. If the kittens are similar looking, it is best to number each one with a permanent marker.

Nursing Kittens

When the mother is relaxed and she settles down with her kittens, it is safe to assume that the birthing process is over. A small amount of vaginal bleeding is normal and this often continues for 2 or 3 days. If bleeding seems heavy or continues beyond this period, veterinary attention is required.